Featherweight Fanatics Archives

2004

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http://www.FeatherWeightFanatics.com/fwf
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Featherweight Fanatics A Service of Sue Traudt's Valley Brook Botanicals

Digest of postings from Wednesday, January 28, 2004 

Welcome to all our new members!
To post a message - send it to: FWFanatics@ttsw.com
To post a message to the For sale list - sent it to: FWForSale@ttsw.com
To pay dues  http://ttsw.com/JoinLists.html
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Subject: I would like to join
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 10:00:56 -0500
From: "Claudia Glennan" 

How do I join the discussion group?  For anyone who is interested, I saw
a featherweight  Texas Centennial Exposition  edition listed on EBay
item #3269819958 auction ends Feb 01-04 12:19:55 PST.

Claudia

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From: Joyzquilter@aol.com
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 21:13:50 EST
Subject: Posting
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Thanks to all who responded to my question about replacement decals.  Whew!  
Think you have all convinced me otherwise.  I will just love the little angel 
as she is, decals or not.
Joy in Sunny AZ

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From: "RN Battersby" 
Subject: piecing foot
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 15:04:34 -0800

I have a FW, and have discovered that the regular pressure foot is a 1/4
inch from the edge of the fabric, so can I use this for piecing? Is a 1/4
inch foot needed? anybody else use this foot for piecing?
Nancy in BC
sewnanc
http://community.webshots.com/user/sewnanc

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From: "Patsy Kay Wood" 
Subject: Elna Grasshoper
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 15:20:58 -0500

To Sarah
     The Grasshopper is a really neat machine and as they are not made 
now are collectible.
     I have one but when I use it I think the knee control raises the 
presser foot when it really makes the machine go.  I have a lot of 
ooopsies.
     The manual says to bring it into a warm room to warm up before 
using as it was made in Sweden.
      It will make a nice addition to your collection.
Pat on the cold,snowy,windy Eastern Shore of Maryland
     
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Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 10:01:39 -0800
From: David McCallum 
Subject: Re: Applying new decals on a Featherweight.

> the front of the machine.  Would they match the old decals or would I have to
> replace all the decals on the machine?  Have never tried this before.  Would
> appreciate your opinions on these two questions!!   Love this site!!  Fellow
> FW lover!
> Joy
>

Dear Featherweighter, Joy:
    You've asked about putting new decals on your Feather. I've done this several
times. I have restored several machines and repainted several and can give you
what I know about the subject.
    First, It is quite the project. The results can be everything you want, but
the process is a bit involved.
    When Singer applied their decals the machine had just been painted (lacquer)
and after applying the decals a "top-coating" of shellac was sprayed on to protect
the decals and the finish (paint) of the machine.
    To redecal the machine means you must remove the shellac finish from the whole
machine before you can remove the old decals because the decals are under the
shellac finish. The shellac cannot be removed in part as where you have removed
the shellac will never look right unless all the shellac is removed from all the
machine. There will be a distint line where the removal ended and the new begins.
    The new decals are good, but.....they are a tiny bit larger than the
originals. The longest decal will be about 3/16th of an inch longer than the
original. The new decals are a dead ringer for the old, and they are not fatter or
distorted, but they are just a little longer. They look good when applied.
    The new decals are not something that can just be placed on the surface of the
machine and left that way. They will come off in a heart-beat as you work on the
machine. They do have to have a "top-coating" with a clear gloss finish sprayed
over them. Again, you can't apply top-coat to only those areas you've worked on as
it will look so much different from the rest of the machine that didn't get the
new finish. It would be like repainting only the left front fender of a 30 year
old car. You could tell real easy.
    So the down side is that it is not just a matter of applying the new decals
and going back to using the machine. The shellac finish must be removed from the
entire machine. The decals will come off as you remove the shellac finish.  This
will not damage the black paint on the machine. The new decals will have to be
covered with a top-coating which means the entire machine must be top-coated.
    The up-side? If you remove the old shellac and decals and replace the decals
and top-coating, your machine will look like new. When the machine is stripped of
the old shellac, any little chips in the finish can be repaired and you'll never
see them again. The pin-scratches in the shellac will all be gone, etc.
    Back to the down-side. If you are not into projects, and I mean projects that
will take some time and effort, better learn to live with the old decals.

    A little more clarification. The work involved in removing the old shellac and
decals, and then restoring the finish requires that the machine have a lot of the
parts on the outside surface removed. The faceplate, hand-wheel, bobbin-winder,
throat-plate, stitch-regulator lever and plate, upper thread tensioner, extension
table, etc. must be removed so that the top-coating does not cover them also.
Chrome plated parts with top-coating on them do not look good and things like the
thread tensioner don't work if glued together with top-coating. The extension
table is removed so it can be top-coated separately. Nothing internal must be
removed to do the work, but there are a lot of things that must be removed so you
can do the work of stripping and redecaling/top-coating the machine.
    End product will be a machine that looks like new.
    Time required to do the work. Eight hours, but you've got to be fairly good
with your hands. Three on one day to strip the finish and decals, two more hours
to put the new decals on, wait until the next day, at least, for the decals to dry
so you can top-coat the machine, and then three hours to put everything back on
the machine. This assumes you are pretty good with your hands.
    There is more involved than just this, but this covers the high-lights and
would let you think through the project and what doing it implies.
    Feel free to write and ask any questions and I will help as I can.

    Dave McCallum
    david.r.mccallum@boeing.com

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From: Bugdctr@aol.com
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 15:01:41 EST
Subject: Off Topic

In order to sew on our working feathers, we need proper lighting.

Some time ago lights were discussed and I have misplaced the information.  I 
am looking for a daylight lamp and have two Ott lights - is there a better one 
in your opinions?

Also, does anyone have a suggestion or source for a Tracing Table?

In order not to ruffle feathers, please respond privately.

Thanks so much!

Peggy H.

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From: Bugdctr@aol.com
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 14:39:40 EST
Subject: FWF/301

After getting set up to sew with my 301----it was not sounding like it 
should, I know that it should purrrrrrrrr---I oiled, lubed it (correctly and by the 
book) it still did not purrrrrr.  SO, I put it in the case and set it aside.  
I then found the FW that I wanted to use (some just sit and look pretty - not 
for quilting)---Anyway it did great until just about finished.  When I put in 
a new bobbin of thread the top thread kept breaking.  I did everything that I 
knew to do------changed the needle (2 new ones), rethreaded, another bobbin - 
you name it, I tried.  I NEVER did find out what the problem was - oh yes, I 
cleaned it from top to bottom. Dissapointed that it had sewn like a dream and 
then decided that it had sewn all it intended to for the day, I put it in the 
case and went to my trusty Viking and away we went!

That was the worst experience-----I cannot imagine what happened to the FW, 
but could not find the problem and I have taken Singers apart for years.  Help! 
 Oh yes, the 301 goes to be completely serviced - beautiful machine, however 
it sounds like a train that needs help.

Peggy H.

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From: PATBERGMAN@aol.com
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 12:52:28 EST
Subject: Check out The American Sewing Guild

 Click here: The American Sewing Guild 

I am cross posting this because I can't remember which list I saw the message 
about someone wanting to know about the American Sewing guild, of which I am 
a happy member.

The website of the American Sewing Guild is http://www.asg.org
 Click here: The American Sewing Guild 

You can become a neighborhood group, affiliated with another group even from 
a nearby city, if you so desire.

I love being with people who love sewing, too.

PatBergman

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From: PATBERGMAN@aol.com
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 11:36:27 EST
Subject: Featherweight Manual for download.

>>>We need an instruction book for our Singer Featherweight 221.  Please send 
one or tell us how to get one.<<<

Bonnie, We are so fortunate to have as a member Graham Forsdyke, and he has 
been so generous to make available for download and printing a Featherweight 
Manual.

Visit this site and learn more. Graham's Singer Featherweight Sewing Machines

PatBergman 

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From: Ajcjsaus@aol.com
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 10:45:33 EST
Subject: Re: FW Fanatics 1/27/2004

I truely appreciate everyone who replied to my question about the lowering of 
feed dogs on the 301....You guys are the best!! I tried it and it works!!
Thank you again
Alice

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Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 05:50:11 -0900 (Alaskan Standard Time)
From: "Betty Keegan" 
Subject: Inside Passage cruises

 There was mention of the Norweigian Wind on the Alaska Inside Passage 
 cruises in some recent posts.  The Norweigian Wind will be replaced this 
 upcoming summer season by a larger Norweigian ship, so even more of you 
 will have an opportunity to see "our world."  We are all island communities,
 so each stop has a completely different "feel" to it.  I live on Wrangell
  Island, which has been the last stop each Friday at 10AM til 3PM.  For 
  any of you who took the "Country Tour" in Wrangell, stopping at the 
  Roadhouse, I served you your Indian fry bread.  For those who might make the 
  trip this coming summer, the fry bread will be ready.  Betty in SE Alaska,
 where for once it is not raining, it is to cold for that!!!!

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From: "Arvil & Dorothy Stinnett" 
Subject: Re: Email site to get dates for Singer Machines
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 09:59:12 -0500


  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Arvil & Dorothy Stinnett
  To: FWFanatics@ttsw.com
  Cc: Dorothy n Arvil Stinnett
  Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2003 6:37 PM
  Subject: Email site to get dates for Singer Machines


  I originally had the email address where I could request the manf 
information on
  my featheweights and Model 301's.  However, lightening trashed my 
computer
  and I lost everything (email addresses and sites)  Can you please 
forward
  the email address to me. 

  Thanks

  Dotty
  arvil.stinnett@verizon.net

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From: "Gerald" 
Subject: Replaceing decals
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 06:30:27 -0600

Joy ask,
Although, I am wondering about applying new decals
on
the front of the machine.  Would they match the old decals or would I have
to
replace all the decals on the machine?  Have never tried this before.  Would
appreciate your opinions on these two questions!!

Replacing decals on the front of your FW can be done, but it's not as easy
as that. First you have to remove what is lift of the decal that is there.
Then you have to apply the new one, after that you have take apart some of
your FW, carefully degrease the base of the machine, tape of what you don't
want sprayed. Yes you have to reclear coat the whole base to protect the new
decals and to make it all look the same.After drying take of the tape and
reassemble your machine. Nothing to it, Right? Not for every one to try. I
have done this to several FW and only some one who really study's decals
would ever know it had be fixed.  So Joy are you handy with a spray gun?
I know Graham and some of the others don't like to hear that kind of stuff.

Rainbow of Colors
http://home.cablelynx.com/~rambo2/Colors/index.htm
In Hot Springs, R-CAN-SAW

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Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 09:58:36 +0000
From: Graham Forsdyke 
Subject: Re: FW Fanatics 1/27/2004

To Bonnie who wrote

>We need an instruction book for our Singer Featherweight 221.  Please send
>one or tell us how to get one.


There's a downloadable one here

http://www.singer-featherweight.com/

If you have problems mail me and I'll send it as an attachment

Graham Forsdyke
Purveyor of fine Featherweights to the gentry
ISMACS London
http://www.ismacs.net

http://www.singer-featherweight.com

Bert's Vintage Repair Book Book: 
http://www.singer-featherweight.com/bert/bert.html

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From: ClarkDeer@aol.com
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 02:23:41 EST
Subject: quilting

Hi All,

I love this site! I have been lurking for a few months, and finally sent my 
dues in, so I feel official now. I have two Featherweights, a black 1947 and a 
white 1964. My question is this: I know these babies are good for piecing 
quilts, but someone made a reference to the motors burning up when machine 
quilting, so now I am a lot worried; are these machines good for the actural 
quilting, or should I use one of my other machines for that purpose? I don't want to 
blow up the motor! OK, those of you who quilt (I'm a novice), please let me 
know what you think, and what you use to machine quilt. Thank you, from Jo Ann in 
Alabama, where it is cold tonight, believe it or now. 

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Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 23:11:12 -0800
From: Socks 
Subject: Mfg date of FW's

Is there an internet site that I can give a serial number for a Singer 
Featherweight and it will tell me the manufacturer date?

thank you

barbara childs

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