Featherweight Fanatics Archives

2004

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http://www.FeatherWeightFanatics.com/fwf
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Featherweight Fanatics A Service of Sue Traudt's Valley Brook Botanicals

Digest of postings from Thursday, January 22, 2004 

Welcome to all our new members!
To post a message - send it to: FWFanatics@ttsw.com
To post a message to the For sale list - sent it to: FWForSale@ttsw.com
To pay dues  http://ttsw.com/JoinLists.html
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From: HMMQuilts@aol.com
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 20:48:06 EST
Subject: Re: FW Fanatics 1/21/2004

To Graham, who wrote in regard to my FW dilemma:

Keep the best cosmetic condition ones -- age is no consideration 
unless one is 1934/35

The AD is (according to Singer) 6/24/35!  And is in great condition!  Anyway, 
the problem (!) is solved.  My friend, Liz, acquired the 1955 model this 
afternoon at our quilting bee.  She is happy with her machine.  I am happy with a 
check which covered my costs!!!  AND I still have the FW table!  Yippee!

Thanks, FWFans, (and Graham, the Purveyor Extraordinaire) for all your help!
HelenMarie
in SE PA USA where it is shivery once again...but the days are getting longer.

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From: ASROL@aol.com
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 19:37:12 EST
Subject: Re: Florida Gathering

In a message dated 1/22/04 1:49:51 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
FWFanatics@ttsw.com writes:
north Florida gathering of vintage sewing machine
enthusiasts on March 12th-14th. 
I went to the Treadle-On Flea Market site and didn't find this listed in the 
Events section.  Did I look in the wrong place?

Anne R

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From: "Gerald" 
Subject: He's still at it
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 17:37:31 -0600

I received this today, so I guess he's still at .

Hi!
I would like to offer you the sewing machine the singer 221. The machine is
in an excellent condition, she has a case, pedal, book, box. The machine has
initial colouring of black colour. The machine has no a rust, but there are
small scratchs but them it is not visible almost. I sell the machine at the
price of 110 $ + 31 $ shipping. Write to me on email and I shall send you
photos of the sewing machine. I shall look forward hearing from you.
Sincerely.
--------------------
Rainbow of Colors
http://home.cablelynx.com/~rambo2/Colors/index.htm

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From: "Tim" 
Subject: To Debbie - 301 Decals (&FWs)
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 12:02:28 -0600

If you have a color printer you can make your own water slide decals.
Wal-Mart or a Model Shop will have "Custom Decal System" in the plastic
models area.

They will work on a painted machine if you understand the limitations.
You get two sheets of decal paper, one transparent and the other for a white
background.
The limitation for the transparent sheet is that you cannot print "white" on
an ink jet printer, and the background color shows through where there
should be white. I tried to put flowers on a FW and it did not work at all,
can you imagine a white daisy turning black and disappearing on a FW.
The limitation of the white sheet is that the white is "weak" and the black
of a FW still shows through. Also you have to trim off the background to the
edge of the decal.

Now, for a light colored painted machine you could easily print the words in
solid black, red, purple, green, orange or blue on the transparent sheet and
it would work fine. Try it - you'll only spend about $6.00.

Tim
Mountain View, AR

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From: "GAIL GAMMELL" 
Subject: Reproduction FW
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 08:39:22 -0800

I noticed a question about Reproduction FW on the digest today.  Now I am 
sure Graham will respond as well as others but I might add my 2 cents 
anyway.
  The reproduction machines are made in Asia.  The parts are not 
interchangeable, the close precision tolerances that made the FW the long 
lasting favorite she is, have been lost in the manufacturing process.  It 
acts sort of clanky and without the fine hum of the Featherweight.  The 
stitches are not precise and fine.  Now.....after all that if you had never 
used a Featherweight nor ever owned a good machine, you might find this 
acceptable. But, most of us know better.  Gail Gammell / So. Calif. 

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From: "Steve Ward" 
Subject: 221 problems
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 10:11:53 -0500

Re: Featherweight value
The value of any Featherweight is based largely on how it looks.
Is the finish still very shiny, or has it dulled?
Are the decals 100% intact?
Is the paint peeling anywhere?
Are there deep scratches or chips anywhere?
Does it have all the ORIGINAL accessories and instruction book?
Does the carrying case look nice, smell nice, and work properly?
Does it have a genuine Singer bobbin case?
Will it run and sew well?

I buy several hundred FWs during the course of a year, and pay anywhere 
from $75.00 to $750.00, depending upon model and condition.

Re: FW motors
I normally will have genuine 221 motors in stock, priced anywhere from 
$95.00 to $115.00, depending upon model and condition. I agree that the 
replacement motors are not as good, and they reduce the re-sale value.

Re: thread pulling out of needle
I hope lots of you FWFs caught this. The 221 threads from right to left 
(inside to outside) and the needle flat goes to the left.

Steve
sewingdoc

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From: "Juell" 
Subject: FW Cabinet Plans  
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 05:53:21 -0800

Hi Feathers: 
Peggy McBride posted an inquiry regarding where to find plans for FW 
oval top cabinets.  Following is a website for B&DDesign (in Utah), 
which makes these cabinets and sells both plans and kits for same: 
http://www.emerytelcom.net/users/bnddesign/fwcabinet/index.htm 
I've never purchased anything from this organization, but recall having 
read nice things about them on this digest. 
Mary in Fiddletown, CA, where early mornings have been frosty and cold.  

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From: Beth Panozzo 
Subject: Re: FW Fanatics 1/19/2004
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 07:48:51 -0600

On Jan 21, 2004, at 11:21 PM, Featherweight Fanatics wrote:

>  but when I start sewing, the top thread
> somehow frees itself from the needle and (needles to say) there is no
> stitching going on.

If you have tried different needles, I can't help, but, on a long shot, 
I once had the same problem which changing needles fixed. Curious, I 
rounded up a magnifying glass and took a close look at the needle. 
There was a clear small gap on the side of the eye of the needle and 
that's where the thread was slipping out. As this was a brand-new 
needle, my assumption is it was malformed from the beginning.


Beth in Alabama

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Subject: Needle Thread Question & Answers
From: Peggy_Hartnett@gstoyota.com
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 07:20:53 -0600

You folks on this list are just the BEST!  I've gotten several responses 
to my question of why my needle thread seems to remove itself from the 
needle when I start stitching .....

As I write this, I haven't tested the suggestion(s) yet, but everyone who 
was kind enough to respond was unanimous when they said, "try threading 
from right to left".

If all of you weren't so nice, I'd feel like the biggest dummy!  I told 
myself several times to try that before I gave up, but did I?  No.  I was 
sure the manual said to thread left to right, so I didn't even try the 
other way.  Now I'll have to go home and read the manual -- I *must* have 
read it wrong ..... right?

Geesh.  And wouldn't you know I'm at work right now so I can't go check 
out the right to left theory.  Which I'll be $5 is absolutely right!

So thanks to all of you who were kind enough to respond!  Ya'll are GREAT! 
 

Happy Thursday, all!

Peg H.
Pearland, TX

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From: "Virgie Williams" 
Subject: Which Featherweight To Live Without
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 06:22:56 -0600

To Helen Marie,

I believe I would have to let my friend have the AM model because both 
of the others are different looking. The Centennial model is special 
because of the Singer seal, and the other one has such a pretty face.

I think that just because the AM model is newer, doesn't make it better 
or more valuable. On the other hand, the table with the AM is nice to 
have. Maybe you need to keep all three. :) I only have one,  an AL 
model, and I love it. If I got another one, I would love it too!

Virgie in TN

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Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2004 09:47:42 +0000
From: Graham Forsdyke 
Subject: Re: FW Fanatics 1/19/2004

To Mary who wrote

>I have been given a featherweight machine in excellent condition - the
>serial number is AF169287.


This is one of a batch of 20,000 machines commissioned at the New 
Jersey factory on February 15, 1939.



To David who wrote about converting 220/240 volt to 110 volt.

Couple of ponts in your mail that I just can't agree with

>  There are step-up transformers
>that will
>make your 220 run on 110, but they are one more thing to carry and 
>hook-up each
>time you set-up your machine. The cost is also about the same as converting to
>110.


No -- a proper conversion to 110 includes totally rewinding the 
motor's field coils. Far more expensive than the $25 for an add-on 
converter.

>
>     In the underside of your machine is a "Capasiter" also. It is a dull
>silver tube about 2 1/2" long and finger
>diameter.........
>The capasiter helped the 220 volt motor get started and the 110 does not
>need this.

The capacitor had nothing to do with motor starting but was added for 
a time from  the early 1950s to all UK made machines (not just 222s) 
to avoid (cut down) interference with television pictures. It's not 
now needed for any voltage machine and should be removed as it's a 
potential cause of problems.

>,
>the motors that are sold as replacement motors for a Featherweight do not look
>anything like the original, the bracket are poorly made and it will take
>modification
>of your machines base to fit it in and have the pullies line-up correctly. The
>pullies will be 3/8" off.


Not so.  Alphasew make a replacement FW motor that  has the same 
dimensions as the original. These are freely available at any dealer 
who has an account with PD Sixty (I'm sure they all do).  Personally 
I don't like them and recommend rebuilding the original motors, but 
certainly they don't require any modification to the machine to fit.

>Please just buy a 221 motor (it is the same motor as
>the 222k
>Featherweights used, only 110 volt) and do not let someone charge you
>more for a 222 motor. They really are the same as the 221 Featherweights'.

There are no 221 and 222 motors. All the same thing and originally 
available in both voltages --- actually in about 15 different 
voltages. Simply buying a 221 or 222 motor will not guarantee the 
voltage you get.


>  A women I helped had a 221 "repaired" with a "new" motor ...... 
>pullies did not line-up and the belt kept
>flipping off. ...... light creame color of the new motor.


This wasn't a replacement FW motor at all, but simply a generic motor 
designed to be fitted to any machine


To Joan who wrote

,
>.  Hope someone can help.  The machine is about
>3/4 the size of a regular size Singer.  The number on the front plate is
>AH071686.  The finish a dull black and has a textured finish.  There is
>no ornamentation, just plain black and it fits into a cabinet (it is not
>a portable).
>
>Can anyone give me information?


Your machine is a Model 99, one of a batch of 10,000 commissioned at 
the New Jersey factory on April 30, 1947





To Peggy who wrote....

>  I'm hoping someone out there has experienced this phenomenon and can
>tell me how to correct it .....
>   I've checked to
>make sure the machine's threaded properly, the needle is inserted properly
>(flat side out), the thread is inserted into the needle properly (from
>left to right) .....


That's a tad short of "properly". Try threading from right to left....

Graham Forsdyke
Purveyor of fine Featherweights to the gentry
ISMACS London
http://www.ismacs.net

http://www.singer-featherweight.com

Bert's Vintage Repair Book Book: 
http://www.singer-featherweight.com/bert/bert.html
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