Featherweight Fanatics Archives

2004



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http://www.FeatherWeightFanatics.com/fwf
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Featherweight Fanatics A Service of Sue Traudt's Valley Brook Botanicals

Digest of postings from Monday, January 19, 2004 

Welcome to all our new members!
To post a message - send it to: FWFanatics@ttsw.com
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From: "Mary and Bud West" 
Subject: Feathweight Singer
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2004 21:53:43 -0800

I have been given a featherweight machine in excellent condition - the 
serial number is AF169287.  Would you be able to give me an idea of the 
value of this machine or where I could obtain more information about the 
machine.
Thank you,
Mary West

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From: Gypcdrmr2@aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2004 22:55:06 EST
Subject: Parts Needed

Hi Fluffies,
I need the two little screws that hold the pins in place when a machine is 
put into a cabinet. (Don't you start with me now.) I got the machine in the 
cabinet but need to secure the hinge pins in place. Anyone who might have them 
please contact me. The machine is a 201.
I saw a pristine Featherweight cabinet the other day. It had all the original 
finish and not a scratch on it, now I know the meaning of lust!
Some workmen came into my studio the other day and one of them remarked about 
my toy machine. Of course it was one of my darling Featherweights. I laughed 
at him and watched his amazement when I told him that I had made all the 
draperies in my house and done upholstery on it. Sure made a believer out of him!
Jacque in Freezing Delaware.

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From: "Junior/Peggy McBride" 
Subject: Looking for plans
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2004 18:26:47 -0600

I am looking for someone who sells plans for the oval topped featherweight
cabinet.  I know I have seen a link on this board before.  I thought there
was someone in Missouri as well as in Arizona

Thanks

Peggy Mc

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Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2004 14:34:47 -0800
From: David McCallum 
Subject: [Fwd: Re: FW Fanatics 1/14/2004]

> From: Lynndea1@aol.com
> Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 17:35:25 EST
> Subject: re:  info on walking foot
>
> I want to thank all the wonderful people who replied to my question about
> the walking foot and 1/4 foot.  I have another question.  What are  people's
> opinon about converting the 222k to 110 volt.  Will it lessen the  value of the
> machine?  Lynn

Lynn:
    The conversion of a 222k from 220 to 110 volts is a very common
conversion. It has been done for a long time. There are step-up transformers that will
make your 220 run on 110, but they are one more thing to carry and hook-up each
time you set-up your machine. The cost is also about the same as converting to
110.
    I've got two 222k's that are from England/Scotland which I love. I
personally would not run them on a converter/transformer, so I converted mine to
110 volts and I am very happy with them.

    If you do not know, to convert them, get a  221 (Featherweight)
motor, they are the same as were used on the 110 volt Featherweights, and replace
your motor.
Take the cover off the bottom of your machine to gain access to the
electrical connections to change the motor. The motor is removed by the same screw
used to adjust the belt. If you have disconnected the electrical, removing the
adjustment screw will remove the motor. Carefully guide the wiring out as you lift
the motor away from the base.
    In the underside of your machine is a "Capasiter" also. It is a dull
silver tube about 2 1/2" long and finger
diameter. It has two wires that run out of it to where everything
connects at the plug receptical. As you take the motor wires off, take these two wires
off also.
The capasiter helped the 220 volt motor get started and the 110 does not
need this. A small clip holds the capasitor in place. If there is the most
remote chance that you would ever want to convert back, just leave the
capasiter in, but
do disconnect the wires. If you do not foresee ever going back, remove
the screw from the clip and take the capasiter out.
    I would suggest keeping the original motor and the capasiter
together in a marked box. Sell/give it away with the machine in the future.

    And a little word of warning. Do not buy a "new" motor for your
222k. One, they don't make original replacement motors anymore, anywhere. And two,
the motors that are sold as replacement motors for a Featherweight do not look
anything like the original, the bracket are poorly made and it will take modification
of your machines base to fit it in and have the pullies line-up correctly. The
pullies will be 3/8" off. Please just buy a 221 motor (it is the same motor as
the 222k
Featherweights used, only 110 volt) and do not let someone charge you
more for a 222 motor. They really are the same as the 221 Featherweights'.

Dave McCallum
Featherweight RX

I repair and restore these machines, but I don't have any motors at this time. I'm
not here to sell you anything anyway, just trying to help. You can find
motors on E-Bay for about $80.00. They are not cheap to get but they are a direct
replacement. Trying to save some by buying a "new" replacement motor
will cost a lot to get it to work in addition to the cost of the "new" motor.
    A women I helped had a 221 "repaired" with a "new" motor and she
smelled a rat
from the beginning. She noticed the pullies did not line-up and the belt kept
flipping off. She also did not like the light creame color of the new motor. The
fellow who "serviced" her machine just bolted the motor on and sent it
home.
She asked me to look at it. I did. She asked how much to repair the machine and
make it work. I quoted her the time to modify the bracket that came with
the new motor, that holds the motor on, and told her the base of her machine
would have to
be modified (trimmed) so the motor could fit and allow the pullies to
line-up.
Three hours work. I did not want to modify the machine to fit some new
motor from
Tiwan, but that is what she chose. I works fine....now. I charge $20.00
an hour and I know most the shops around me charge $50.00 an hour. And to be
honest, I don't know of one that could have done the work. It wasn't a "just
remove and replace job" and a lot of shops would not have touched it. We painted
the motor
black, at least.

    The conversion is easy, and will not cheapen the machine at all. It
was done all the time in the '50 and '60 and the conversion is just part of the
Featherweights' story.

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From: "DancerKukla2" 
Subject: What is it?
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2004 14:37:10 -0500

Hi folks,

Cleaned out my attic this morning a came across a machine I bought 20 
years ago...It is a Singer ...relax it isn't a featherweight but I don't 
know exactly what it is.  Hope someone can help.  The machine is about 
3/4 the size of a regular size Singer.  The number on the front plate is 
AH071686.  The finish a dull black and has a textured finish.  There is 
no ornamentation, just plain black and it fits into a cabinet (it is not 
a portable).

Can anyone give me information?

Thanks,

Joan G.

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Subject: Any ideas on why thread comes out of the needle?
From: Peggy_Hartnett@gstoyota.com
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2004 08:46:03 -0600

Okay, feathers ..... I got so many great replies to my last request for 
help, I'm hoping someone out there has experienced this phenomenon and can 
tell me how to correct it .....

I purchased a "new" FW a couple of weeks and finally got a chance to use 
it this past weekend.  This lovely machine has been thoroughly cleaned and 
restored and I've got the receipt from the shop where it was recently 
serviced.

However, when I tried to sew, every time I start stitching, the thread 
somehow "removes" itself from the needle.  It's not breaking -- it's 
literally coming out and parking itself in the fabric.  I've checked to 
make sure the machine's threaded properly, the needle is inserted properly 
(flat side out), the thread is inserted into the needle properly (from 
left to right) .....  the bobbin tension feels perfect and the bobbin is 
inserted properly into the case; the case sits perfectly in its little 
housing ..... when I rotate the needle down to pull the bobbin thread up, 
it pulls it up perfectly ..... but when I start sewing, the top thread 
somehow frees itself from the needle and (needles to say) there is no 
stitching going on.

Has this ever happened to anyone else?  Any ideas of what I can do to fix 
this?  I feel like I'm in the twilight zone or something -- this has never 
happened to me, on any machine, FW or not!  If not, this will be machine 
#3 that will be going to the OSMG I was referred to recently.

Thanks, in advance.  Happy Monday everyone!

Peg H.
Pearland, TX

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Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2004 12:10:47 +0000
From: Graham Forsdyke 
Subject: Re: FW Fanatics 1/16/2004

To Susan who wrote

>..I've just received my 1935 Featherweight from a purchase on
>eBay. It is wonderful with one small exception...a clacking sound which I'm
>thinking is due to some thread stuck in the bobbin case base. I know my fellow
>FWF
>have some hints on how to remove this thread without causing me to lose my
>religion.


You can remove any thread by taking out the bobbin base as shown in 
the instruction manual but I doubt this is the problem.

More likely

1) flattened location springs,

2) excessive wear in the bobbin base housing

3) excessive end float in the lower shaft,

4) excessive  play in the bevel gears.

Graham Forsdyke
Purveyor of fine Featherweights to the gentry
ISMACS London
http://www.ismacs.net

http://www.singer-featherweight.com

Bert's Vintage Repair Book Book: 
http://www.singer-featherweight.com/bert/bert.html
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