Featherweight Fanatics List Archives

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Featherweight Fanatics
Digest of postings from Friday, September 24, 1999

Welcome to all our new members!
To post a message - send it to: FWFanatics@ttsw.com
To post a message to the For sale list - sent it to: FWForSale@ttsw.com
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Hi Everyone

Looks like Thrusday's digest went out more than once to some subscribers.  Sorry for any problems this may have caused.  We are working to make sure this doens't happen again.

Thanks - Sue T
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From: Alice.Hayden@DoubledayDirect.com
Subject: RE: FW Fanatics for 9/22/1999
Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 09:33:10 -0500

<< OK, gotta ask ---- what's a "fat quarter"? >> 

In the US, it is when a Quarter Yard of fabric is created by cutting a half
yard of fabric (18" wide) and then cutting it in half horizontally.  So from
a 44" wide bolt of fabric you end up with 18" x 22" piece of fabric (instead
of a piece 9" x 44").  The squarer piece is usually more usable for
quilting, et al.

Alice in sunny and cool Hicksville, NY
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From: "Robert And Diane English" 
Subject: 128 manual
Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 14:07:09 -0400

Hello everyone,  Ive been enjoying reading all the postings.  I have a couple of things to discuss.  One is the cleaning of the paint on shiny machines.  I've seen a couple of requests for advice on this and waited with bated breath for the replies as I too have a machine (1948 FW) with dull paint.  Apparently they were answered privately as I've not seen the responses.  Can anyone tell me how to make my dull paint shine?  I've tried car wax with mediocre results.

Next, I've just acquired a gorgeous 128 handcrank c.1919 and would love to find an original manual for it.  Can anyone out there help?  (Interestingly enough, its paint is bright and shiny).

TIA,     Di, in coastal North Carolina, where we're still reeling from Hurricane Floyd
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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 11:05:23 -0400
From: "Chris P. Vagtborg" <71155.1072@compuserve.com>
Subject: FW Fanatics for 9/22/1999

Hi All...

For Sandy U, re: 201 at >$85 Canadian< =3D a steal. The 201 was Singer's
best straight stitch machine and sews beautifully. If you do a lot of piecing
or fine sewing you need this machine. As a bonus, the feed dogs drop so
you can do free motion quilting! Buy it, you won't regret it. I have TWO...

For Gayle N, re: 301... Yes, the 301 is another good Singer. Weighs just 16
pounds and has a built in carry handle. Straight stitch, slant needle, feed
dogs drop, strong motor. Actually I prefer it to the FW as my hands fit more
easily under the bed and I don't like getting burned by the FW lamp. Being
a little bigger than a FW, it's more of a guy machine anyway... I picked one
up last weekend at a flea market for $35 with carry case, attachments, etc.

For Graham F, re: Fat Quarters... Ha, got ya on this one! A Fat Quarter is
a half yard of fabric cut in half so each of the two pieces are 18" x 22"
and are folded into a small 'pillow', about 3" x 4". Buying multiple FQs
provides enough fabric for a project without breaking the bank account. They
typically run US$2.00 to $2.50. They are *very* popular here in the States as is the Fat Eighth and Sixteenth. In my experience though, people buy them just to add to their "Stash" - another curious custom amoung quilters. Buying
fabric to put away for a rainy day, or just to have...

Chris on St. Simons Is., GA where you'd never know that we had a close
brush with Floyd last week... Sunny, 80, cloudless, light breeze, Topdown!
www.steppingstonesquilts.com
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From: "Robert And Diane English" 
Subject: 128 Handcrank
Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 15:42:19 -0400

Fellow collectors - Heeeelllp!  I'm trying out my beautiful new 128 handcrank (1919) and I'm having a great deal of trouble with the thread tension.  I have a copy of a much later 128 manual, but assume threading should be the same.  When I sew, the top thread is in big loops.  Changing the top tension makes absolutely no difference. (It doesn't seem to be changing). I tightened the bobbin tension a tiny bit, just in case it was very loose, but that seems ok.  I would be extremely grateful if anyone out there can help. 

Di, in flooded North Carolina where the power was off for nearly a week and a handcrank would have been a blessing.
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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 08:48:20 +0100
From: graham forsdyke 
Subject: Re: FW Fanatics for 9/21/1999

Just had a rather strange Featherweight through my hands.

I sold it to an American collector and was doing the final service and
fitting the rebuilt motor. When I took the undertray off I found that all
the rods and shafts had been  ground smooth and brightly polished to a
mirror finish.

Intrigued, I dug a little further and  found that even parts which could
not be seen without fairly major dismantling -- like the vertical shaft --
had the same treatment.

 Must have taken  scores of man hours. But why? I could understand
polishing the parts that show underneath the machine if it had been used as
a shop window piece but the only reason I can come up with as to why the
entire machine -- even the screwheads -- had been polished was that perhaps
the machine was once displayed  as a kit of parts to show what went into
making a Featherweight.

Would have liked to have kept this curiosity but I sold it , at the normal
price, before I discovered the mystery.

Any ideas?


Graham Forsdyke
Purveyor of fine Featherweights to the gentry
ISMACS London
graham@ismacs.u-net.com
http://www.ismacs.net
http://www.viznoise.net
http://www.sew-sales.com
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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 02:31:04 -0400
From: Heather McMurray 
Subject: stylist 776

Hi, I have become the owner of an old Singer Stylist 776 and need to
find a set of attachments/plates and also the manual.  Would the 774
manual be o.k.?  I have an old old stylist manual, but it seems too
old for my machine.
Also, I mistakenly purchased a Singer touch and sew set of discs.
Would someone like these?  Just cost of mailing and they are yours!
Heather
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From: GClark1028@aol.com
Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 14:59:00 EDT
Subject: RE: How to Identify a FW

Hi everyone:
I am convinced I must have a FW but have been reading every post and am 
confused about how to tell if the machine is actually a FW.  This may sound 
dumb but I have read so many model numbers and different colors and years of 
mfg. and I am a little perplexed.  Is there a way to know for sure that a 
machine is a FW?  Does it say FW on the emblem or somewhere?  I want to start 
searching at garage sales and antique shops but want to know what I should be 
looking for.  Thanks for your help.  Please don't laugh too hard. :)

Want-to-be-FW-owner.
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From: EAmstutz@aol.com
Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 07:08:37 EDT
Subject: Red Eye decals

Hi Lois,

> The paint is crazed and the decals are wrinkled in places. DH thinks
>  they were misapplied at the factory. What do others think: could this be
>  something that happened in the same way the paint got crazed? 

On my Red Eye, c 1917, the decals below the spool spindle have a long crease 
and I had come to the conclusion (just guessing, of course) that it happened 
at the factory. Seems reasonable to me!  If that's the case do you suppose 
the price might have been lowered?

Ellen in Sandusky, OH
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From: "maggie arlotta" 
Subject: Elna lotus
Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 18:44:13 -0400

Greetings all!

I had to write to comment about the Elna Lotus SP machines.
My buddy Stuart (Peggy Stu)found and passed onto me a wonderful Elna Lotus
SP model which I received just the other day. Having used all kinds of
vintage machines for my sewing ......this was a "horse of a different
color". Now I usually stick with my Singer 401/301/221 for my everyday
quilting  and doll clothes making. Needing a zig zag machine occasionally I
was tempted to test drive this Lotus which I hear people rave about now and
then.
Well they are right. I am VERY impressed with this tiny little machine. It's
size is truly quite small. Folded up into it's case it measures a itsy 11
1/2". But please don't let it's small size fool you. It is a little
powerhouse! A keeper for sure.

Maggie in NY
Vintage Sewing Machines Home Page
http://www.sewwhat.net/magsrags
ISMACS NA Representative
http://www.ismacs.net/
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From: EMMYLINE@aol.com
Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 18:57:48 EDT
Subject: Re: FW Fanatics for 9/22/1999

Graham - a fat quarter is a cut of cloth. Usually fabric is cut across the 
bolt. Most fabric, especially 100% cotton, is produced in 44-45 inch widths 
and wound on the bolt after it is folded in half. A standard 
quarter-of-a-yard cut would yield a piece of fabric which is 9 inches by 
44-45 inches because the fabric is cut in its folded state across the width  
A fat quarter is cut from fabric which is unfolded before or after the cut. 
Its dimensions are 18 inches by 22-22.5 inches.  The square footage is the 
same for both quarter-yard pieces but the dimensions differ; fat quarters are 
the "fatter" pieces.  Paula
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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 17:58:41 -0500
From: "J. B. Sonnier" 
Subject: Information

I have been all over the web and you are my last resort.   I am not a FW
owner but I own a 1910 Brunswick Treadle Sewing Machine.   I have no
information on this machine and have come to the conclusion that it must
be a rare brand.  Have you ever heard of it, or can you direct me to a
webite for more information??   Any help will be deeply appreciated.
TIA
 Jill in Louisiana
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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 21:52:49 -0400
From: Meredith Piatt 
Subject: FW corrosion/paint repai

I have several questions about my new FW, if you all don't mind.

Paint repair
Well, I got my FW today and the most glaring problem (much worse 
than seller described) is some corrosion and chipping paint on the base (if 
you laid the machine on it's front, the bad area would be facing you--its on 
the same side at the motor).  It's about 4 inches long at this point.
I must do something, because paint continues to chip.  My first instinct 
would be to mask of the whole machine, sand the area (which is about 4" by 
3/8" {the edge of the base}, and touch it up with primer (maybe) and paint.  
As I said, something must be done, as the paint is flaking off.
I think the machine got it's "feet" wet at some point, judging by the 
condition of the case, it that helps identify the area of concern.
I'd love to hear your opinions on this.  Are there people out there who do 
this sort of thing professionally?

Replacement Case
Regarding the case, it is in such bad shape, I would not feel 
comfortable carrying the machine in it.  Are there repro/replacement cases 
available for practical use? I may be traveling with my new baby and want to 
feel secure.  I won't throw the old case out, but the bottom is falling out.

Sewing performance
It has been at least 30 years since I sewed on a FW, and I don't remember 
speed.  Does a "happy" FW sew at a speed comparable to a modern machine, or 
is it less.  I know this one will need oil, lube, (and a good cleaning) but 
wasn't sure whether I should expect faster performance or not.  It seems 
slower than a modern machine.  Not really a problem, just wanted to know what 
to shoot for.

Thanks for putting up with this long missive.

Meredith
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Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 22:12:45 -0400
From: Meredith Piatt 
Subject: FW necessaries

I just realized, I don't know what kind of needles or bobbins my new (old)
FW will take.
Do I need to get Singer Red or Yellow band needles?  Or will the Schmetz
that the Bernina uses do?  Want to do what is best for my new baby.

What "class" of bobbins does the FW use?  Or are they in a "class" by
themselves ?

TIA

Meredith
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